For my birthday, my colleagues surprised me with a meal at Lerouy, a modern French restaurant that earned its coveted Michelin star in 2019. Helmed by Chef Christophe Lerouy, who himself led Alma by Juan Amador to its one-star accolade in 2016, the restaurant recently relocated from Stanley Street to its current outpost on Amoy Street.
There are two seatings available at Lerouy – a lunch seating that runs from 12pm – 2pm, and dinner from 6pm – 10pm. Diners seeking a more cost-friendly option, can opt for the Petit menu which is available on weekdays (excluding Fridays for dinner).
Stepping in, you’re greeted by industrial chic decor accompanied by a calm efficiency that buzzes around both tables. It’s an entirely counter-seat experience at Lerouy, so you can watch the culinary action upfront.
For my Grand Dinner ($178), I was first presented with a series of tapas designed to whet my appetite for what was to come. The opening starter of Ama Ebi, Nori Tart, Finger Lime treated my tastebuds to flavours of the sea, accompanied by an ever so slight tartness and crunchiness of the nori tart. (There are also no official dish names at Lerouy; just ingredients so you can fully understand what’s going into your meal.)
The David Herve Oyster, Green Curry, Coconut was the next aquatic treat to grace my table. Biting into the oyster, I could taste is freshness and juiciness, while the tiny asparagus tips provided a savoury contrast to the rich green curry foam that concealed the actual oyster. Very interesting mix of flavours and textures.
The Pissaladiere, Nardin Anchovies, Olive, Onion was an incredibly umami combination, thanks to the cut of anchovy that featured prominently on this appetiser. It’s worth noting that strong, intense flavours are the name of the game at Lerouy.
The Asian Beef Tea, Lemongrass is one of the regular features on Lerouy’s menu. Served in a glass tube, the flavours evoke memories of tucking into a comforting broth at your family’s dinner table. Lots of robust flavours packed into a small serving; imagine what it would be like to have a whole bowl of it!
The Sour Dough Bread provided a brief intermission between Chef Lerouy’s innovative, experimental dishes. Served with four kinds of butter which you can sample as you make your way through the bread. The Charcoal Butter was my favourite out of the four, with its strong umami notes surpassing its Salted counterpart. While the Beetroot Butter reminded me of hummus, the Spinach Butter was comparatively muted in taste.
Following the opening series of teasers, were the six main dishes where Chef Lerouy’s gastronomic innovations come to the fore. The Ora King Salmon, Avocado, Shiso, Kaviari Caviar, Sea Lettuce presented a playful mix of savoury and tart flavours, with the latter overpowering the other elements at times. This was also one of the prettier main dishes on the menu, with the contrast between orange and green shades popping on the plate.
The Brittany Scallop, Kolrabi, Chive, Lamb Tongue was another memorable dish, with the scallop and lamb tongue wrapped in the kolrabi. The citrusy and savoury flavours came together in an interesting blend with each bite.
The legendary Salt Baked Cabbage, Ancholade, Lardo, Lime made its appearance as the sole dish to feature a vegetable as its main star. Each layer was baked to perfection, with the subtle flavours of the cabbage perfectly complemented by the other stronger tasting elements on the plate. The lardo crunched with each bite, releasing much appreciated umami notes that elevated this typically simple vegetable. It’s not hard to see why this dish features on many customers’ reviews and posts. I was almost regretful when I cleared the plate!
As soon as I took my first bite of Spanish Carabinero, Seared Foie Gras, Pumpkin, I couldn’t help but close my eyes in amazement at the explosion of flavours. The Spanish carabinero was striking both visually and taste wise, with the succulent flesh yielding easily to my knife. Each bite of this buttery crustacean melted in my mouth. The accompanying foie gras added a touch of sinful richness to this medley of sweet and savoury flavours. Did I also mention this dish was served with a generous shaving of truffles?
The Japanese Seabream, Mustard, Leek, Dill tasted familiar and comforting. With Chef Lerouy seemingly fond of placing tarty, citrusy elements in most of his dishes, I was happy to indulge in some comparatively mellow, simple flavours.
Chef Lerouy saved the best for last with the final main dish of the night: F1 Wagyu Hanging Tender, Yuzu Kosho, Soubise. Interestingly, you are not given a choice of doneness for this course; instead it is served to you the best way he deems fit. The wagyu was unbelievably tender and juicy, and perfect even without the accompanying sauces. A piece de resistance that completely spoils your tastebuds, and compels you to savour it slowly, so you can make it last as long as possible.
You are also given your choice of custom-made knives, with your preference of weight and thickness in the knife handle for this course.
Concluding my Grand Dinner was an artfully assembled dessert of Beetroot, Raspberry, Muscatel Wine Vinegar Orange Blossom Honey. The tartness of the raspberry in this dessert was really strong, almost on the intense side. As though to cut through all the rich flavours I had sampled that evening. So the occasional sweetness from the honey was much appreciated.
As a final indulgence, I made my way through the Petit Fours while watching the chefs clear their stations for the night. Simple yet satisfying, the bite-sized desserts packed some sweetness that was welcome after their tarty predecessor.
All in all, I had an incredible experience at Lerouy. The Grand Dinner was a luxurious stroll into the world of modern French cuisine, elevated by innovative touches and experimentation by its eponymous chef. The atmosphere is not overly formal, but rather enjoyable as you do get to watch your dishes being prepared in front of you. Definitely worth a try if you’re in the mood to indulge!
Address: 104 Amoy Street, S(069924)
Nearest MRT: Telok Ayer DT18/ Tanjong Pagar EW15
Tuesday to Saturday: 12pm – 2pm (lunch), 6.30pm – 10pm (dinner)
Closed on Sunday and Monday
Contact: +65 6221 3639/ firstname.lastname@example.org